Erhard loretan biography of rory

  • Night Naked A Climber's Autobiography - Legends and Lore Series.
  • Erhard Loretan and Jean Troillet, unprecedented and unrepeated, climbed the north face in a single alpine style push without oxygen, ropes.
  • In this gripping memoir, the legendary explorer undertakes a death-defying solo journey around the Arctic Circle without motorized transportation.

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    From Base Camp on the Khumbu Glacier, on the south side of Mt. Everest (8848m), clients, Sherpas and guides shuffle through the meticulously prepared Khumbu Icefall that, from a distance, seems to consist of more air than solid ground. Spreading up from Camp I at 6100 meters, the Western Cwm forms a comparatively gentle incline, crowned by Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse. At the head of the valley, the Lhotse Face rises from Camp II around 6500 meters at an abrupt forty- to fifty-degree angle, oscillating to form steeper bulges and small platforms amid a cascade of crumpled ice. It’s the first continuously steep section that clients encounter on their mass migration to the summits of Everest or Lhotse. But before that march begins, Sherpas prepare the route by fixing lines up the 1400-meter face.

    In late April, western guides and sirdars met in low on the mountain to decide how many and which Sherpa climbers would fix the route up the Lhotse Face. “It’s usuall

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    EXPEDITIONS AND NOTES

    1. THE UNKNOWN PEAK IN TIBET
    2. EVEREST, 1988
    3. KANGCHENJUNGA, 1988
    4. PARAGLIDING FROM THE SIXTH HIGHEST MOUNTAIN IN THE WORLD
    5. CHO OYU EXPEDITIONS, 1988
    6. AMA DABLAM EXPEDITIONS
    7. THE LAMOSANGU — JIRI ROAD AND SOME ECONOMIC AND SOCIAL EFFECTS*
    8. LANGTANG LIRUNG
    9. SWISS MANASLU EXPEDITION 1988
    10. ANNAPURNA SOUTH PEAK, 1988 — SOUTH RIDGE
    11. DHAULAGIRI
    12. GANESH HIMAL V, 1987
    13. KEDARNATH PEAK SOUTH FACE, 1988
    14. ASCENT OF BANDARPUNCH I, 1986
    15. MANIRANG, 1988
    16. KULU PUMORI, 1988
    17. TIGER TOOTH (BARA SHIGRI GLACIER), 1987
    18. GUNNERS ATOP NUN-KUN, 1988
    19. LADAKH, 1988
    20. BIALE, 1988

     

     

     

    1. THE UNKNOWN PEAK IN TIBET
    Japan-China Friendship Joint Expedition to Labuche Kang (7367 m), 1987

    KINICHI YAMAMORI

    The expedition to Labuche Kang (7367 m) in Tibet by the Japan-China Friendship Joint Party was carried out from September to November in 1987.

    This expedition was sponsored by the Himalayan Association of Japan (HAJ) and the Tibet Mountaineering Association (TMA). L

  • erhard loretan biography of rory

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    Everest North Side Team Struggles to Snag Ski Permit

    The American team aiming to ski down the Hornbein Couloir on Everest’s North Face continues to struggle with securing Chinese permission.

    According to Nepal’s media, the Everest Ski Project costs a million dollars, largely provided by The North Face and National Geographic. Expedition leader Conrad Anker and head of filming Jimmy Chin seem still not to have sorted out their visa issues to enter Tibet. Anker was in Kathmandu last weekend. Chin’s location is unclear, but he seems to be hard at work lobbying the Chinese authorities.

    OK to go up but not down

    The rest of the team entered Tibet two weeks ago. Some members are in Tingri while others have reached Base Camp and already moved to Advanced Base Camp, at 6,400m, The Himalayan Times reported.

    Their next steps are not so clear: They have a permit to climb the mountain via the Hornbein Couloir, but not to ski down. The China Tibet Mountaineering Association